Destinations / Havana

Why La Guarida Should Be At The Top Of Your Restaurant List in Havana


September 4, 2019

Determined to get a good photo in the foyer at the infamous Havana eatery, La Guarida, I scampered up and down the grand staircase. On my third run, I start to sweat. I can feel half a dozen eyes on me as my friend Kelly snaps away with my camera.

I’m wearing a white, off-the-shoulder top, tropical shorts and laced up gladiator sandals, but I suddenly wish I had worn a Michelin man-style snowsuit. My outfit hadn’t felt that scandalous when I had put it on that morning, but with a crowd of construction workers crowding the bottom of the stairs to witness my impromptu shoot I wanted to petrify into a decorative statue.

As if suffering from crippling performance anxiety wasn’t enough but I have witnesses to my shame that I’m the kind of person who does it for the ‘gram. But in a place as gorgeous as La Guarida, how could I help myself? But besides the old-world glamour of Havana’s most established paladar, there are a plethora of reasons La Guarida should be at the TOP of your restaurant list.

RELATED READING:

Havana for 6 Types of Foodies
How To Plan For The Most Culturally Authentic Trip To Cuba
A Curated 10-Day Itinerary of Cuba

 

The history

La Guarida, Spanish for “the hideout” is aptly named as it is one the most celebrated and glamorously clandestine restaurants in Havana.

Steeped in historical significance, the majestic building was originally built in 1913 and known as La Mansión Camagüey. Hundreds of illegal restaurants were opened in a desperate bid to survive during Cuba’s Special Period, as it is euphemistically referred to, when the collapse of the Soviet Union resulted in economic devastation and near famine.

La Guarida was undergoing extensive renovation hence all the construction workers

Enrique and Odeisys Nuñez opened the doors to La Guarida in 1996 during the short period of time that the restrictive government was handing out licenses for private enterprises like paladares.

 

Authentic experience

Speaking of paladares, it’s Cuban slang for “privately owned restaurants” and were legalized in the 1990s. It is the most authentic culinary experience you can have in Cuba and La Guarida was definitely one of the highlights of my trip.

Here’s a fun bit of trivia for you: The word originates from a popular Brazilian telenovela in which an impoverished but enterprising woman moves to Rio and sets up a successful chain of restaurants that she christens “Paladar”.

The genesis of the word, translating to “palate” in Spanish and Portuguese, hints at the hope Cubans had for the potential of these independent, family-run eateries during such oppressive times. You’ll find an exciting speakeasy vibes with inventive menus beyond a bland plate of rice and beans.

Read: How To Plan For The Most Culturally Authentic Trip To Cuba

 

Hollywood Realness

La Guarida gained notoriety after being the set of the Oscar-nominated Cuban film, Fresa y Chocolate, gained international success.

If you’re a Rihanna fan, you might recognize the iconic steps at La Guarida from a gorgeous photoshoot she did in Cuba for Vanity Fair.

Does the backdrop look familiar? (Photo Credit: Vanity Fair)

The likes of Steven Spielberg and music royalty Beyoncé and Jay-Z have also graced the eatery with their Hollywood glow as well as actual royalty like Queen Sofia of Spain and Prince Albert of Monaco.

 

Photo ops

Every nook and cranny of La Guarida is a photo op, daring you NOT to strike a pose.

Situated in the less-touristy area of Central Havana, the unassuming exterior of this mythical establishment looks like another run-down colonial mansion.

Once you enter through double wooden doors, it’s like you’ve been ushered onto the set of a 1940s film noir. Despite its crumbling appearance, La Guarida possesses a faded elegance with the high ceilings, buttery golden walls, a worn mural of the Cuban flag and grand staircase with rusted wrought-iron banister.

Dine at long tables under sparkling chandeliers surrounded by framed photos and paintings. If it’s a nice night, try to snag a seat on the balcony to catch a breeze.

Read: A Curated 10-Day Itinerary of Cuba

 

FINE DINING

I cannot believe I’ve been writing about a restaurant for so long and have yet to even mention the FOOD. Everything we ordered was as pleasing to the eye as it was to the tastebuds, being expertly plated and flavoured.

The standout dish for me was the refreshing octopus carpaccio and the toothsome tuna tiradito topped with chunks of mango and caviar. They looked like delicious works of art! The suckling pig is a fan favourite and it was followed by an unconventional dessert. A coconut “soup” was poured out of a little kettle over coconut ice cream and some spongey cake.

Read: Havana for 6 Types of Foodies

 

ROOFTOP VIEW

For unbeatable panoramic views of Havana, ascend the stairs at La Guarida till you reach the rooftop bar. Savour a refreshing pineapple daiquiri (so good!) on the elevated terrace. Watch in awe as the sun washes over pastel-hued buildings on its descent below the horizon.

Not only is La Guarida a must-visit when you’re in Havana, it’s the ideal spot to get a bird’s-eye view of the entire city.


La Guarida

Location: 418 Concordia, La Habana, Cuba
Price Range: $$$
Type of Food: Caribbean, Latin, International
Good for: Outdoor Dining, Fine Dining, Girl’s Night Out
Tips: Make a reservation in advance


Are you planning a trip to Cuba any time soon? Even if you’re not staying in Old Havana, I would highly recommend a day trip to this charming city. If you’re looking for things to for a day, this post will give you plenty of ideas.

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