How I Spent A Week In Paris When My Airline Went Bankrupt

When I get home, the weather will be cold enough that I can hide out in large sweaters and multiple layers until spring. Pants are overrated anyways.

This was my (typical) train of thought as I waited in line in Paris to board my Primera Air flight back home. I had spent the last 2 weeks gallivanting around Greece (and avoiding pants) and arranged what was supposed to be a quick 2 day layover in the City of Lights to visit friends and stuff my face with buttery pastries (and boy, did I!).

Impatient to get on the plane and snag the limited overhead space for my carry-on, I was relieved when we finally started board. The relief lasted for, oh, 10 minutes.

Immediately after being ushered on the vessel, we were being shooed off and all would-be passengers formed an angry mob around the flight attendants, demanding to know what was going on in a mish mash of languages.

What do we do now? Are we getting our money back? Are you helping us rebook flights home? I have to work tomorrow! The flight attendants were deeply unhelpful. Surly, dismissive, argumentative – to be fair, I guess they just lost their jobs.

It turns out that literally as we had been boarding the plane, news broke that Primera Air had filed for bankruptcy.

If you’re ever in this situation (and I really hope you aren’t) let me tell you what that means – You’re never seeing that money again. No one is helping you get back home. You are essentially up shit creek. Pardon my French (but not the pun ahahah).

It was a surreal experience watching hundreds of people hunkering down in the departure area and frantically trying to book a flight home on their phones.

The airport wi-fi wouldn’t let us book flights so we had to buy data. Tickets were selling for upwards of $1,000 for a one-way flight and disappearing as soon as you could find one. Flights with Primera – the bastards – were still available online! We couldn’t even leave the airport because the only way you exit the departure terminal is on a plane and THAT wasn’t an option. So that was a fun slice of hell 🤬

But I was lucky. Relatively. I refused to take an $1,000 one-way flight back home that included a 20+ hour layover in some creepy airport in Timbuktu! I hoped additional flights would open up to compensate for the sudden demand over the next couple of days. Fortunately I had the flexibility to stay at least another night to figure out what to do without getting fired.

I was even MORE fortunate because my close friend was living in Paris and I texted her immediately. She not only let me squat at her place for the extra week that I ended up staying, but she made me feel like me hogging her bed was all she wanted in this life. Plus, her bed is SUPER comfy. So I was very lucky, except that I was $400 poorer 💸💸💸(plus the cost of the flight back).

But it’s all about perspective.

Is it really the worst thing in the world to be stuck on an extended vacation where the pastries are amazeballs?

I think not.

Les petit choux at Senoble

I had a place to stay, my boss was very understanding of my situation (unlike my Asian parents who were flipping their lids…as if I made the airline go bankrupt), and I could work remotely to an extent. Suddenly I had a stretch of unplanned time in Paris and for a person who always has a plan, it was unprecedented.

I had done and seen all the main tourist attractions the last couple of times I’d visited so now I could explore all the places I never had the luxury of time to do before. Who are we kidding….all I did was eat.

Breakfast

You know how I feel about breakfast in Paris….the only way you’re going to get a good one (or one before 11am) is not Parisian. And that’s ok – they can’t be good at everything.

Holybelly

I’ve been dying to come to this legendary Aussie cult classic for ages and I finally got a chance! It was worth the wait. Light pancakes are topped with plump fried eggs and crispy bacon, mouthwatering bourbon butter and maple syrup. I literally drooled on my keyboard a little…

Salmon mille-feuille + seared tuna with poached eggs

Hardware Societié

Fine, I discovered The Hardware Société last time I was in Paris but no lie, I came here 3 times in a week. I sampled the majority of the menu – from the heavenly roasted mushrooms, to the dill scrambled eggs on brioche buns, to the salmon mille-feuille. Don’t forget to order the ganache-infused hot chocolate or the homemade chai with oat milk!

Balagan

Transport your tastebuds to Israel for a meal at Balagan. In Hebrew, the name means “beautiful mess” and the decor definitely is (minus the mess) with grey marble, triangular tiles, copper, and wood. This super trendy spot is the ideal setting to nosh on a vibrant fusion of Moroccan, French and Israeli cuisine dishes.

Pickled peppers, gravlax, and other Israeli delights!

46 & 3rd

Sweet or savoury? Happiness means never having to choose and at this cozy joint, the pancakes come with 2 scrambled eggs and perfectly crisp bacon. Added bonus: the chef is the sweetest and will console you with a glass of wine (at 10am) when your airline goes bankrupt.

Read: 5 Spots to Satisfy Your Breakfast Craving in Paris

Main Meals

The pitas from Mi Va Me…b/c I ate the ones from L’As Du Fallafel too fast…

L’As du Fallafel

People are OBSESSED with this falafel spot in Le Marais neighbourhood and I finally got to find out why. Tuck into a pita overflowing with fried eggplant, crunchy coleslaw and pickled radish. Grab a seat inside or risk one of your precious fried chickpea balls rolling away.

If this fan fav spot is closed or too busy, Mi Va Me across the street is a respectable alternative!

Guys – this entire half wheel of cheese was ours for the eating!

Le Chalet Savoyard

Push your lactose-intolerance to the limits and eat your weight in raclette as the half wheel of cheese melts obscenely on a plate, melted by a mini heater. At Le Chatelet Savoyard, they bring an enormous half wheel of wine-rubbed cheese to the table that you scrape onto potatoes and meats until you concede “uncle” (or as the French say, “oncle”).

Cafe Qui Parle

We wandered in here around midnight and had limited choices left which ended up being AMAZING – a delightfully crispy duck confit and a poached peer and prosciutto salad with phyllo wrapped goat chèvre. It was so good, I came back another day!

doppio

A sucker for anywhere with hanging plants and comforting plates of pasta, I took myself out on a date around the corner from Janelle’s place in Montmartre (when she was on an actual date). By this point, I hadn’t had a minute alone (conscious or otherwise) for almost 3 weeks so I relished creamy, indulgent truffle tagliatelle and a book at the bar at Doppio with a refreshing Perroni.

Remote Working

Beautiful interior of Cafe Pimpin

To ease the guilt of feeling like I was completely shirking my work responsibilities, I tried doing what I could remotely. Luckily there are an abundance of cute spots in Paris to work from!

Café Pimpin

We came for the name and stayed for the wifi! Right around the corner from Janelle’s place in Montmartre, we munched of avocado toast and a fresh spinach salad with pomegranate seeds at the fabulously named Café Pimpin. It was the perfect morning of people-watching and in-depth conversation.

La Recyclerie

A huge cultural centre with a view of the old railway, this spot is ideal for a productive work sesh. The wide open space is filled with plants, books, and various tables and nooks with large windows to allow natural light in as you toil away while sipping a mint tea.

Sunset

A classic French café in Montmartre, I have a soft spot for the blue awning-covered terrace of Sunset. It’s where I met up with Janelle the first time I visited her in Paris. I’d go there with my laptop and a book, sip wine and take advantage of the free wi-fi.

Pastries

Canalés and beignets from Paul!

Every time I’ve been to Paris, I’ve always been too full to entertain the idea of pastries in between meals. Sacré bleu! I know…I’m thisclose to ripping off my foodie badge of honour. But that’s probably why fate intervened and stranded me!

Paul

Chocolate hazelnut-filled beignets, salted caramel éclairs, huge macarons, and several canalés – a small French pastry flavoured with rum and vanilla with a soft and tender custard centre and a dark, thick caramelized crust – and we walked away from Paul, a French patisserie and boulangerie chain, a little poorer and with a lot more cellulite.

Just a light snack!

Senoble

Do you see why I can never wear pants again?! Every corner of Paris is occupied by glorious patisseries. I never stood a chance. More éclairs and colourful macarons from the deep indigo-hued Senoble to ruin our dinner (but it was totally worth it).

Boneshaker

Named after one of the first types of bicycle, invented in France in the 19th century, Boneshaker had a mind-boggling array of flavours to choose from. We settled on a brown butter glazed doughnut, topped with a mini mountain of toffee popcorn, as well as a toasted marshmallow frosted Guinness stout confection.

It looks like cream soda but it was pink beer….no idea why…

French Hot Dog

The French just can’t stand being second to anyone so they developed their own version of the American classic. The French Hot Dog involves a hot dog in a crusty baguette, smothered in cheese. This one also happened to be covered in a béchamel sauce…double heart attack. You can find them in random bakeries.

Read: A Not-So-Secret Love Affair (With Food) In Paris

Drinks

Le Musset

After a quick walk by the Louvre and along the Seine, we stopped for drinks on a terrace for some classic people-watching at Le Musset on Sant-Honoré. Lucky for us, it was happy hour AND I spotted Owen Wilson riding a bike incognito in lavender pants.

Septime La Cave

I’ve tried to go to Clamato (sister restaurant to the infamous Septime) but to no avail. Since we could’t get fed, we drowned our sorrows at their wine bar around the corner, Septime La Cave. It’s a tiny spot where everyone seems like like friends enjoying a relaxing apéro.

Afterwork @ Palais Maillot

While I was not technically working, I attended a weekly event called Afterwork at Palais Maillot because HELLO –15 euro for all-you-can-eat-champagne! I thought lining my belly with carbs would help but I didn’t anticipate the sexy bouncer/server who kept bringing champagne to our booth, 4 bottles at a time.

Cafe Oz

Considering how aggressively packed with bodies this place was, it was not surprising to discover that it’s an Aussie bar. It was my friend’s birthday festivities so I bought a round of shots (that he probably has no recollection of) and danced with his attractive friends. Oh là là!

Lessons Learned

My biggest takeaway from being stranded in Paris were:

+ There’s not point in stressing out. Breathe. Stay calm. Think logically. It’ll all be fine.

+ Take what the universe is giving you. Maybe it was a lesson meant to teach me that everything would be fine. Maybe it said I needed an extended vacation to reboot my creative juices. Whatever it was, it worked.

What To Do If Your Airline Goes Bankrupt

+ Call your bank or credit card (whichever you booked the flight on) and check to see if you have any kind of insurance or protection with them for these types of situations.

+ Email the airline (they probably won’t do anything but be persistent)

+ If you booked through an intermediary – like Expedia or a travel agency – then contact them. I booked through Kiwi and they were great! Gave me a full refund of my flight even though they weren’t legally liable.

Now that you have a list of things to do in Paris, prepare yourself by learning what faux pas to avoid committing.

Keep your stalking game strong and follow me @teriaki if you aren’t already!