If you’re looking to visit majestic lakes near Vancouver that will take your breath away, the Joffre Lakes Hike will be a revelation in many ways. At least it was for me.
Firstly, the entire time I was touring Joffre Lakes Provincial Park — home to three awe-inspiring, brilliantly turquoise glacial-fed lakes located in the southwest region of British Columbia — I had no idea how to pronounce the name. It ended up sounding like a trendy slang term for “job” and “offer”…”J-offer” Lakes. WRONG! It was deeply humiliating humbling to learn that the correct pronunciation is “Jaa-free” Lakes.
The second thing that hiking the Joffre Lakes made me realize is that I’m either detrimentally optimistic or have the memory of a goldfish (it’s probably a mix of the two). Despite vowing “NEVER AGAIN” after climbing the Masada Fortress and suffering debilitating altitude sickness while scaling Machu Picchu, I thought “This time will be different.”
Spoiler Alert: It never is (more on that later)…
Finally, not only do the stunning views afforded while hiking the Joffre Lakes Trail take your breath away figuratively, but you will also literally be left breathless because it’s quite a steep climb. At least it felt that way to someone as vertically challenged as I am (see: short).
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a guide to joffre lakes
If you’re planning a trip to the glorious British Columbia or looking for serene lakes to visit near Vancouver, add Joffre Lakes Provincial Park to your must-visit list! This guide will tell you in on everything you need to know and the things you wanted to know but were too embarrassed to ask, especially if you’re a hiking novice like I am.
Plus, I am also giving you epic post-hike activities to treat yourself after trekking the arduous Joffre Lakes Trail (hint: it involves a brewery, spa, and food, oh my!)
Can I do the Joffre Lakes Hike as a day trip from Vancouver?
Joffre Lakes Provincial Park makes for a magical nature getaway from city life in Vancouver and it’s manageable as a day trip IF you don’t mind a two-and-a-half-hour drive both ways along the Sea-to-Sky Highway. Also, make sure you go early so you can hike at your own pace, plus you don’t want to get stuck finding you way down the trail after dark.
However, hiking the Joffre Lakes Trail is definitely more enjoyable to as a day trip from Whistler or Pemberton as you won’t have to deal with the stress of rushing. Treat yourself to a night at the Pan Pacific Whistler, located right in the centre of all the action of Whistler Village. There’s plenty to do in this ski resort town no matter the season and it’s the perfect halfway point between Joffre Lakes Provincial Park and Vancouver.
Do you need a pass to hike Joffre Lakes?
Yes. Emphatically YES! If you show up to the Joffre Lakes Provincial Park without a pass, you will be denied entry ⛔️ That’s a long drive to be turned away for failing to do a basic Google search.
As of June 2021, Joffre Lakes Parks is part of the BC Parks Day-Use Pass Reservation System, managing the high traffic volumes of British Columbia’s most popular parks.
At first glance this may seem like a pain-in-the-ass extra step but hear me out — this free pass initiative will not only result in less crowded trails, facilities and parking lots, but in the long run it will preserve and protect the environment and wildlife. All good things.
How do you get a free pass? Passes are available at 7am, the day before you plan to visit through Discover Camping. So if you’re planning on hiking Joffre Lakes on Wednesday, you better be on the website bright and early on Tuesday morning at 7am sharp to snag a limited pass before they’re sold out.
Why are the Joffre Lakes so blue?
Skepticism that the vivid turquoise of the Upper, Middle, and Lower Joffre Lakes are due to some Photoshop wizardry (much like how I discovered the photos of the Dead Sea were) is understandable.
But let me confirm that the striking hue was as stunning IRL as it is in Google images.
The unbelievably intense saturation of the glacier-fed Joffre Lakes is thanks to what is known as “rock flour” or “glacial silt.”
As the glacier melts, finely powdered rock particles are carried down to the lakes and stay suspended in the waters for a long time, reflecting green and blue wavelengths from the sunlight.
Is the Joffre Lakes Hike hard?
Welp. I guess it depends on your definition of “hard.”
The Joffre Lakes Hike would be categorized as moderately challenging by most hikers, with a steady incline, several technical areas, and a steep decline.
According to Vancouver standards, “moderate” is considered relatively difficult especially in comparison to more treacherous hikes (like Grouse Grind). However, I vehemently disagree with the mild-sounding label. It doesn’t sound nearly scary enough to deter non-hikers such as myself.
Fresh out of lockdown, any physical fitness I had once possessed withered away so the Joffre Lakes Hike felt like a torturous, never-ending climber machine to me.
To call what I was doing “hiking” would be generous. It was more like the standing equivalent of crawling.
I was so exhausted that I would stop every 10 steps to catch my breath under the pretense of admiring the view and let me tell you, I did a lot of “admiring.”
But if you’re a reasonably physically active person, the Joffre Lakes Hike shouldn’t be too difficult of an undertaking.
How long is the Joffre Lakes Hike?
The Joffre Lakes Hike is 10km long and will take between 3.5 – 5 hours from the parking lot to the Upper Joffre Lake and back, depending on your pace and how many rest stops you take to swim, eat or catch your breath.
It’s a mere 5 minutes to Lower Joffre Lake, 1.75-2 hours to reach Middle Joffre Lake, and 2.5 hours to Upper Joffre Lake. Obviously, the trek between the Lower and Middle Joffre Lake is longer and harder than from the Middle to the Upper Joffre Lake
What should I bring?
✧ Comfortable hiking shoes
✧ Swimsuit (if you want to go for a dip) and towel
✧ Sunscreen
✧ Bug spray
✧ Water
✧ Snacks
✧ Camera
The joffre lakes trail
Hiking To Lower Joffre Lake
This is your amuse bouche to the Joffre Lakes.
Lower Joffre Lake is a flat, 5-minute stroll from the trailhead that will lull you into a false sense of calm, (mis)leading you to believe that the hike to the Middle and Upper Joffre Lakes will be similarly effortless.
It can be compare it to the couple minutes of light stretching that precedes running a 10k marathon while wearing an adult diaper.
Hiking To Middle Joffre Lake
Most people who attempt to do the Joffre Lakes hike end their journey at Middle Joffre Lake…and I don’t blame them.
While the hike to Middle Joffre Lake is undoubtedly the most idyllic and picturesque, it’s also the hardest and longest of the three. Depending on your pace, it’ll take about 1.75 hours at a steep incline.
However, at the end of the trail you’ll be rewarded with the unforgettable sight of sparkling turquoise waters framed by dense forest against an imposing mountain range looming in the distance.
The most infamous IG photo spot is on the long log…which I refused to do. Like I need to tempt fate! There is no doubt in my mind that if I had attempted this photo I would have fallen in, either from slipping or performance anxiety from trying to NOT fall in. Plus, the water is 4°C so no thank you.
Hiking To Upper Joffre Lake
If you’ve descended from a family of mountain goats or are just in better physical condition than I am (not hard to be especially after lockdown), then you will no doubt want to venture on to Upper Joffre Lake.
Swing to the right path and you’ll pass a glorious waterfall that connects the Middle and Upper Joffre Lakes. While this trail is much shorter than the previous slog, it’s still quite steep and can be slippery.
Congrats, you’ve made it 🎉🎉🎉
This is where you’ll be able to set up camp,
whether it’s because you are a camping enthusiast or you’re too tired to hike back down.
Camping at Upper Joffre Lake is made by reservation only through Discover Camping and can be made up to two months in advance. No cash or payment can be made at the park.
Remember: Pack in what you pack out. Observe the Leave No Trace Principles (LNT) while on the Joffre Lakes Trail to reduce your impact and preserve the environment.
hiking back down
Now what?
After taking in the view or going for a quick and frigid dip in the vivid turquoise waters, it’s time to head back down.
There are several ways to approach the steep decline: If you’re as sure-footed as a mountain goat (and have really good hiking shoes) I guess you can parkour down like I saw some hiking enthusiasts do, tuck and roll (my preferred method), or go down the way you went up…slowly and carefully. Beware of slipping on dusty patches or tripping on errant roots.
Post-Hike Care
The Beer Farmers
After all of that hard work hiking Joffre Lakes, you deserve to celebrate by cheers-ing with a cold beer. Since the Joffre Lakes Provincial Park is just a mere 35km east of Pemberton, check out one of the epic local breweries.
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Mosey on over to The Beer Farmers for a bucolic happy hour paradise enjoyed with a frosty pint in front of a well-worn barn with a majestic mountain looming impressively in the background. Rest your sore legs while sipping a plum sour amid patches of sunflowers and an honest-to-goodness tracker parked nearby.
Scandinave Spa Whistler
You know I look for any reason for a spa experience, whether it’s lounging at an onsen or getting scrubbed at a hammam. But what better reason to treat yourself than surviving a moderate hike?
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After your post-hike beer, beeline to Scandinave Spa in Whistler to soak your soon-to-be sore muscles and wash away all the dust and dirt collected from the day’s activities. Tucked on the edge of the Lost Lake spruce and cedar forest, you can languidly move through as many hydrotherapy cycles as you desire (10-15 minutes in hot, 1 minute cold, 10-15 minutes rest, repeat) at this rustic yet luxe oasis.
This was a bit expensive but it was also so, so worth it especially after the rigours of the Joffre Lakes Hike. I could feel my poor, broken body being soothed by the warm waters followed by reinvigoration by the cold plunge.
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Note: You may need to make a reservation unless you go when it’s less busy from 5:30pm till 9pm closing.
Dinner at Hunter Gather
While there are plenty of drool-worthy places to eat in Whistler, my body felt like jello after the hike and relaxation time at the spa. There was NO way I would’ve be able to force my sore body into an upright position at a fancy restaurant like the highly-rated Araxi Restaurant or Bar Oso.
Instead, we grabbed some food at Hunter Gather, a casual eatery and taphouse offering locally made dishes like a smoked brisket sandwich and the vegan-friendly pulled jackfruit sandwich.
After hiking Joffre Lakes and unwinding at Scandinave Spa, I was ravenous so I ordered a full rack of smoked pork ribs served with BBQ sauce, coleslaw, jalapeño corn bread and a side of your choice (I got potato salad).
Every person who passed me on my way up the Joffre Lakes Trail took one look at my weary expression and reassured me that the view at the end of the hike would be worth it.
So, was it? At the time, I wanted to scream at these well-meaning fellow hikers “Easy for you to say, you’re on the way back down!!” But I have to admit (albeit grudgingly) that it was worth the sweat, dirt, and pain of it all (I’m a baby), especially in retrospect. I have no doubt that my temporal goldfish memory will reset just in time for my next hike.
If you want to have an adventure-filled summer, check out these other places near Toronto to explore.
Keep your stalking game strong and follow me @teriaki if you aren’t already!
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